As we approached a group of small buildings huddled together, as if to protect themselves from the vast expanse of the Argentine Pampa, the dust whipped across the cracked pavement, trying to get our attention. The coyote of Ennio Morricone’s theme song, “The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly,” howled in my mind, triggered by the present scene. The buildings were the remnants of an old, but still functioning, train station and our visit to…